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 Step by step instructions  

Always use protective gear while handling Classic Etch Acid Stain.  Use goggles to protect eyes, a respirator to prevent the breathing of fumes, rubber gloves and long sleeves or a painters suit, etc.  

Always perform a test area before beginning the actual project.  Apply the actual stain to the work area exactly as the test area was performed.  Sealers, hardeners and curing agents will affect the outcome of acid staining.  Each pour of concrete will be different from another.   

Cover all surfaces that are not to be stained with plastic.  Remove any visible glue from tape, gum, caulk, paint or other materials that are on the surface of the concrete.  In many cases there will be unseen foreign materials on the surface of the concrete that will not appear until the sealer or finish coats are applied and have cured.  These spots are referred to as character spots.  This is what makes stained concrete unique and unlike any other flooring.  Although Classic Etch does not require conditioning the concrete prior to staining with acid or softeners, removing dirt and debris is required.  Wash concrete with trisodium phosphate (TSP) and water mixture.  Let the concrete dry completely before applying Classic Etch. 

Staining

Apply Classic Etch with a garden sprayer in a random pattern starting in a corner and working out at a 45° angle to the corner.  For a more even coat a soft 8” broom may be used to even out puddles and light spots. Be careful to not leave broom marks as these will be permanent.  Control drips by not allowing them to set for more than a few seconds before spraying them with more stain or diluting them with water.  Allow the first coat of stain to dry a minimum of 6 hours with a recommended dry time of 12 hours.  Test to see if the first coat of stain is the color desired by using a wet sponge to wipe a small area.  While this area is wet notice the color achieved.  If this is the color desired then no additional coats will be needed.  Repeat this step until the desired results are achieved.  Note that when the stain is dry it will not reflect the final finish that will be acquired when a finish coat is applied. 

Rinse

After the final stain is applied it is time to rinse and neutralize the stain   Plan for stain runoff when rinsing the residue.  Do not let the residue runoff get on surfaces other than the area that is being rinsed. Use approximately 10 oz. of ammonia to every 4 gallons of water.  Use a stiff broom 8 to 12 inches wide to loosen the residue.   It is extremely important to shop-vac the water before it has time to dry on the surface.  If the water does dry after scrubbing, you must re-wet, scrub, and vacuum the water and residue. 

Sealing

Allow the rinsed floors to completely dry, then apply your choice of finish coat.   Most sealers are applied with a 1/4 - 3/8 inch nap roller.  It is important to roll the sealer to a even coat not leaving dry spots or puddles.  Once the sealer dries some dry  spots will be visible.  For a even luster at least 2 coats of sealer will be needed depending on the porosity of the concrete.  It is important to inspect and re-apply the finish coat as needed.  Many common cleaners will breakdown and remove the finish coat prematurely.  When there is a lack of finish coat the concrete will accept dirt and fluids into the pours.

Optional wax

Some application may choose to use a wax or floor finish on top of the sealer.  This is done in high traffic situations and the customer has the ability to re-wax and/or buff on a routine bases.  Use good ventilation to help dissipate fumes from sealers and waxes.  Most sealers and waxes are flammable and should not be exposed to open flames or sparks.

Follow manufactures instructions and warnings for all sealers and waxes.  Discard empty product containers in appliance with federal, state and local regulations.  

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