Step
by step instructions
Always use protective
gear while handling Classic Etch Acid Stain.
Use goggles to protect eyes, a respirator to prevent the
breathing of fumes, rubber gloves and long sleeves or a painters
suit, etc.
Always perform a test
area before beginning the actual project.
Apply the actual stain to the work area exactly as the test
area was performed. Sealers,
hardeners and curing agents will affect the outcome of acid
staining. Each pour of
concrete will be different from another.
Prep work
Cover
all surfaces that are not to be stained with plastic. Remove
any visible glue from tape, gum, caulk, paint or other
materials that are on the surface of the concrete.
In many cases there will be unseen foreign materials on
the surface of the concrete that will not appear until the
sealer or finish coats are applied and have cured.
These spots are referred to as character spots.
This is what makes stained concrete unique and unlike
any other flooring. Although
Classic Etch does not require conditioning the concrete prior
to staining with acid or softeners, removing dirt and debris
is required. Wash
concrete with trisodium
phosphate (TSP) and water mixture.
Let the concrete dry completely before applying Classic
Etch.
Staining
Apply
Classic Etch with a garden sprayer in a random pattern
starting in a corner and working out at a 45° angle to the
corner. For a more
even coat a soft 8” broom may be used to even out puddles
and light spots. Be
careful to not leave broom marks as these will be
permanent. Control
drips by not allowing them to set for more than a few seconds
before spraying them with more stain or diluting them with
water. Allow
the first coat of stain to dry a minimum of 6 hours with a recommended
dry time of 12 hours. Test to see if the first coat of stain is the
color desired by using a wet sponge to wipe a small area. While
this area is wet notice the color achieved.
If this is the color desired then no additional coats will be needed.
Repeat
this step until the desired results are achieved.
Note that when the stain is dry it will not reflect the
final finish that will be acquired when a finish coat is
applied.
Rinse
After
the final stain is applied it is time to rinse and neutralize
the stain Plan for stain runoff when rinsing the residue.
Do not let the residue runoff get on surfaces other
than the area that is being rinsed. Use
approximately 10 oz. of ammonia to every 4 gallons of water.
Use a stiff broom 8 to 12 inches wide to
loosen the residue.
It
is extremely important to shop-vac the water before it has
time to dry on the surface.
If the water does dry after scrubbing, you must re-wet,
scrub, and vacuum the water and residue.
Sealing
Allow
the rinsed floors to completely dry, then apply your choice of
finish coat. Most sealers are applied with a 1/4 -
3/8 inch nap roller. It is important to roll the sealer
to a even coat not leaving dry spots or puddles. Once
the sealer dries some dry spots will be visible.
For a even luster at least 2 coats of sealer will be needed
depending on the porosity of the concrete. It
is important to inspect and re-apply the finish coat as
needed. Many
common cleaners will breakdown and remove the finish coat
prematurely. When
there is a lack of finish coat the concrete will accept dirt
and fluids into the pours.
Optional wax
Some application may choose to use a wax or floor
finish on top of the sealer. This is done in high
traffic situations and the customer has the ability to re-wax
and/or buff on a routine bases. Use good ventilation to
help dissipate fumes from sealers and waxes. Most
sealers and waxes are flammable and should not be exposed to
open flames or sparks.
Follow
manufacturers instructions and warnings for all sealers and
waxes. Discard empty product containers in appliance
with federal, state and local regulations.
